I'm a big boy now!

Megan and I made one last visit to our favorite Anacortes haunts, and found this little guy looking lonely out in front of the courthouse.

The town has painted these people-murals on many of the local buildings. Most are cute or charming, but some are kind of creepy. Don't know what to think about the little guy above.

The next day after a hundred good-byes, Megan headed back to the world of high-flying executive super-stardom. After a shopping stop in Portland, she was back on the 5 southbound to Sausalito to get ready for her new gig. Early reports are that it is an awesome situation. We'll have more in a few days.

Sugar convinced me to soldier on, at least for a while. So we headed for Deception Pass to shoot the rapids. The pass is 200 feet wide, and can rage at 8 knots if you get there at the wrong time.
We made it no problem at slack tide, then set sail down the inside of Skagit Bay to Holmes Bay, where Chris and Susan Olberding are living the good life on the waterfront in Freeland on Whitbey Island.

After tying up to their mooring with a front-row seat, the only obstacle was the low-tide mudflat. It looked like sand but is more than a foot deep! That first step is a doozy, and I was up to my knee in mud. I had a nice audience to look cool for.

Sugar was in dirty-dog heaven, doing spins and runs back and forth through the stinky mud. Little crabs scurried out of our way, with much bigger dungeness crab waiting for us out in the bay. Chris took 41 crab over the weekend, so you can imagine we ate really well. Sugar found new people to play ball with, and only took a few breaks to flatten the flower beds. Sorry!?!?

Boats slowly filled in during the day Friday, getting ready for the big show. The weather really couldn't have been any better.

Coming back from the boat that afternoon, I had a heck of a surprise when who should appear, but my mom, Claire, and Bryan. I couldn't really believe my eyes at first, and Sugar went nutty, jumping four feet in the air. Someone was shooting video, which I'll post shortly.

We had a great time hanging out and catching up. Claire is 5 months pregnant with their first and positively glowing. Those two are pretty darn cute! Mom slept out on the boat, and Claire and Bryan slept down on the dock, sharing the sunrises with the herons and other little birdies.

Freeland shoots the fireworks off on the 3rd for some reason, and the view was incredible from the Olberding's back yard. The fireworks barge was almost front and center.

Thanks to G-Dubb for the photo.

Claire, Bryan, mom and I took off for an awesome sail up the bay on July 4th. Everyone had a nice nap enjoying Either Way's mellow ride. So fun sharing just a little piece of my/our life up here cruising around.

The weather closed in after everyone headed back on Sunday, but I'm warm and dry in Chris and Susan's living room. Will take off in the next day or so for points unknown. Stay tuned!

A little rain must fall...

There have been a few comments that this looks like more fun than we should be having in these tough economic times. We can assure you that it's not all roses, as we had an awful time of it the other day when it rained for a few minutes.

We recovered with some serious Yatzee tournaments (Megan scored 4 Yatzees in one game), but it seems there was one real casualty on our return trip to Stuart Island: Sugar got stung by something on her nose, which turned into a rash, which turned into a scab that she had a heck of a time keeping her paws off of.

We fixed her fiddling with a modified paint bucket. Poor thing looks like a monstrous surprise in your movie theater popcorn. Sugar is cool with the bucket because it always seems to have treats in it. She's taking it easy and healing fine.


After a quick visit to the rocks off Yellow Island where we left a little bottom paint (hey, that red buoy isn't on our old charts), we headed up to Blind Bay to wait out a storm that never arrived. We did catch an incredible sunset and a horizon to horizon double rainbow though, which was cool.


After that, it was off to the big city lights of Friday Harbor to see The Hangover. One of the best films we've seen in awhile. We're still laughing about it a week later.

Has this ever happened to you?

The Holmbergs stopped in at Friday Harbor on the ferry heading back from Canada. We had a great time with our Hommies as always.


Those Holmbergs can bowl! Who knew the best pizza in town would be at the bowling alley. Ray and Paul made a new friend in Popeye the one-eyed seal that hangs out waiting for frozen herring. Evidently Popeye is a she, and pregnant with her second pup in as many years. Who knew? The guys are also pretty good shrimpers with the huge solstice tides we've been having.

Then we were off for one last jaunt through the islands before our lives take yet another dramatic turn (wait for it... wait for it...)

We headed out to Jones Island, which had been packed with boats the first time we passed. We just had to see what the fuss was all about. Not a huge deal in the guides, but one of our favorite stops. Great hiking and fantastic views. Otters swimming in the eelgrass a stones throw from the boat, fawns leaping through the brush above, and clear water all around. Jones Island is a winner if you can avoid the weekend crowds!

We had a spectacular downwind sail through President's Channel on our way back to Sucia for one last visit.

We opted for Echo Bay this time as it has the best protection from a strong Westerly wind which arrived right on schedule that night. Our anchor held well, as did everyone else, which was a good thing since there were about 30-40 boats in there with us.

The tides and weather looked right for a quick trip back to Anacortes where Megan is jumping ship! The big news is that Megan is heading back to the employed world. Our last cruise ended when Nick got an offer he couldn't refuse, and this time Megan is being sucked back in.

Autonomy is an incredible company whose stock continues to rise at an alarming pace. They make software systems that derive meaning from the growing amount of data out there. She is Customer Liaison Support Manager, working with the rock star she worked with in the tech heydays before our last cruise.

Megan heads back down to Sausalito this week to put our household back together, while Nick continues sailing for a few weeks before packing the boat to ship south at the end of July. Sugar is going to take up the slack and keep Either Way looking pretty.

along the way...

Stuart Island is a short hop from the megayachts of Roche Harbor, and a quick step back about 100 years. This is what passes as a road. To where you ask? There are only two signs: one to the schoolhouse and one to the lighthouse. Both are well worth the 5 mile hike to the other side of the island from where we moored at Reid Harbor.




Evidently this schoolhouse won some architectural awards when it was built in the 1980s. Cool. There are no school-aged children on the island now, so it looks to be more of a museum or meeting hall than anything else. They still mow the mini-soccer field next door for some reason.

The little teacher's quarters house next door had some historical information about the early settlers. A rough looking bunch, but you have to be amazed by how hard it must have been back then. It was especially hard for the visiting teachers. They had a poster with sample rules for the [female] teachers (from the early 1900's I hope): 1. No riding in cars with men other than father or brother, 2. No eating ice cream or smoking cigarettes in town, 3. You may not leave the island without the permission of the chairman, 4. No fraternizing with men. One lady hung herself in her father's barn. Maybe she couldn't deal with the rules. Can't even imagine.




Well, this is where you can buy some tourist shwag (and mail them payment). Kind of cool to see that the honor system is still in place somewhere. We passed on the "Pirates of Stuart Island" t-shirts, but it was really tempting.




We made it out to the lighthouse, which was automated in the 70s. This is where we guard against invasion from Canada.



The light is really an afterthought as the tower here is covered with all sorts of cameras and sensors, presumably to watch out for smugglers, which we hear is still an issue up here. The view is incredible, and it's great to see that there isn't some spa-resort set up. Long live the BLM!




Stuart Island is cute and quaint, but a lonely island overall, with a lot of no trespassing signs. We did see one local on THE road. She gave a cautious wave. Not sure we see the appeal of this lifestyle, but to each their own.

Reid Habor is really comfortable and protected, but we felt the need to move on, so we headed out to Garrison Bay on San Juan Island.


This is where the Brits set up a last ditch effort to claim part of the San Juans after the US incorporated the west. They gave in, and now this a park that sports the "largest maple tree in the world." Can't confirm that, but it sure is big.



Next we were back at Roche Harbor for a pit stop and some groceries, then we are back out to Provost Bay to meet Nick's uncle and aunt on their powerboat. So fun to hook up with other travelers. Yes, those are clouds in the background. Weather has turned a little bit cooler with some morning clouds, but we aren't complaining!


And finally, here is the gratuitous Sugar-shot. She still approves of the lifestyle we think.

Now that's cruising

Anacortes, the gateway to the San Juans, was very good to us. We caught this beautiful sunset on what we thought would be our last night...


Before we get to that story, meet our favorite Anacortians, Larry and Marla. As our luck would have it, our boat was birthed 3 slips down from theirs for a month. They're the cream of the cruising community, generously bestowing books, a land side dinner, island tips, rides, mailing address and home for our car while we're out cruising.


Back to the departure plans...Larry snapped this photo as we left our slip and headed one boat over to fuel up before heading out for a few weeks. Everything was perfect, the weather, the crew, the boat...or so we thought!


After a few clunks and diagnostics from the engine room, it seems our luck had run out. However, of all the places to run out, we did get lucky. Turns out the transmission cable broke. In other words we lost our ability to shift into forward and reverse from the cockpit. Ironically, this is the third time (on two boats) this has happened. Generally speaking it isn't a common occurrence.


This repair would have cost us over $800 and several days had it not been for my captain/yogi Nick. I wish I'd captured his twisted body upside down in what looked like the dolphin pose. I have no idea how he does it, but times like these remind me why I'm so comfortable with him at the helm.

Finally, some downwind sailing to the outer islands of Sucia - can you believe how cute this dog is?? Wow, look out for the tanker.

Sucia is our favorite so far. The island is shaped like a hand with lots of anchoring and mooring options in between the fingers. The best part is there is nothing but trails and campsites on the island!!


When Nick saw this photo he said, "wow, we sure are white". We are, but the sunscreen kicks it up a notch!

The island is alive with birds and sweet smells for everyone.

Looks like Nick is about to be swallowed up by a big clam!

After 5 nights we were thrilled to pull into Roche Harbor, the Monaco of the NW. Especially since the last night was quite uncomfortable with gusty winds and swells. We'll only stay a night this time before heading out to Stuart Island later today. Can you believe we have another sunny day on tap?


Let's go!

Blind Island and tempting fate

Nick got the autopilot and the galley salt water pump installed as fast as possible so we could enjoy the (unheard of) 80 degree weather in the islands. We're used to hearing, "we haven't seen weather like this in 20 years," but it's never been a good thing...

We still can't get over how close all the islands are to each other. Within 3-4 hours we were on the north end of Shaw Island across from Orcas Island. At first glance the options seem overwhelming. However, once you start zeroing in on places that allow you to both go ashore and bring your dog, it becomes pretty easy. Lots of private property up here!

We were happy to find the last of three moorings available at Blind Island where we could relax and soak in the sun.

The next morning Sugar insisted we row ashore and explore the 2 acre island. It was another HOT day - as you can see I broke out the shorts (my legs are even whiter than my arms). It's a sweet little island that you can camp on as long as you kayak in.


We headed back eastward the next day and played daredevil for the fun of it. The guidebooks say that the narrow passage (20 meters) between Spencer Spit and a private island off its tip is deep enough to pass, as long as you hug the rocks. With a steady breeze filling in, we tempted fate by sailing through! No problem.

The gods weren't impressed, and paid us back by turning the wind direction 180 degrees overnight, making for an aweful night's sleep as gusts at the bottom of Lopez Sound gusted to 33 knots for hours on end. Brought back painful memories of crazy nighttime winds on Low Pressure down in the Channel Islands six years ago. At least the moon was beautiful as we stood watch into the wee hours. Overall a good reminder that we are at nature's mercy and just have to roll with the punches sometimes.

Sugar fared the best and came up to cuddle with Nick in the cockpit for a couple of hours. All is well the next day, and we'll head back in for our last provisioning before Monday's BIG departure.